Lilies Water Gardens News

Patio Pond and Container Water Gardening

Patio Pond and Container Water Gardening

Containers with water in, look great in a multitude of situations and can bring your garden to life with much the same impact as planted patio pots and hanging baskets.  Imagine yourself on a hot summers day, chilling out with a glass of wine, sitting next to your container water-garden with its miniature water lilies floating around on the surface, supporting its very own small ecosystem. Not only is it visually attractive, but with the plants you have chosen and with the beauty of their reflections, you will surely feel pride and pleasure in its depths. You will be amazed at the visitors that decide to make it their home too, such as, damselflies, dragonflies, water-boatmen, pond skaters, pond beetles, and frogs to name but a few!  Your container and the pond life it will attract, will do best in full sun or partial shade but, can also be situated in many other locations around the garden such as, a border amongst other plants, on a lawn or patio, in your conservatory or, if you do not have a garden, you can even have one on your flat balcony. You may think that water gardening, if you live in a flat, would be somewhat impossible but, this is however, becoming a popular hobby and can be addictive.  I have many customers that are avid fans of container water gardening who have filled their balconies and gardens with up to a dozen containers in different locations.  You can even add a new dimension with the sound of trickling water, as there are hundreds of simple water features and lots of ways to adjoin them to maximise that ultimate container garden experience.

Planting

As containers are generally small, the best and most effective and easiest way to plant your containers up is, to put the plants directly into the soil. Rather than using aquatic baskets, and using bricks for water depths, simply add aquatic soil straight into your container as this will give you that natural looking overall effect. If you half fill your container with soil first and then allow six inches of water to float on top of that, you won’t go far wrong.  Don’t forget to add plant food.  I would recommend pushing 6 osmocote tablets down 1 or 2 inches into the soil.  They are harmless to wildlife, and should be repeated halfway through the growing season, but do not feed your plants later than July.  For healthy, clean and clear water you will need a balance of plants.  A couple of marginal plants, some with floating leaves and a uninvasive oxygenating plant, will give you good results.  If you are planting up multiple containers, try to use lots of different plants as this will give variety and balance to the overall effect. Below are a few plants I personally recommend, but there are masses of others to choose from. If you log on to our website and click on the advanced search tab on the top navigation bar and then tick the box (suitable for patio water gardening), you will easily find the plants of your choice.  Our containers are also available to buy online.

Recommended Container Plants :-

Pygmaea Helvola

Pygmaea Laydeckerii Lilacea

Typha Minima

Hydrocharis Morsus Ranae

Iris Laevigata Variegata

Elodea Canadensis

Cerotophyllum Submersum

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Duckweed Problems

Duckweed Problems

Unfortunately duckweed seems to be the curse of every garden pond.  Just when your pond is looking at its best, and your plants are starting their spring growth, along it will come invading our beautiful ponds with millions of tiny green floating leaves which spread out over the water’s surface at a rate of knots.  This pest plant is so invasive that one individual plant that may have by chance arrived on the back of a frog or on the foot of a visiting bird, can divide, self-seed and ultimately, cover your entire pond within weeks.

Not surprisingly, the most common question I frequently get asked is “How do I get rid of it?” You may have tried time and again and think it’s an impossible task but, I have seen incredible results of duckweed being brought under control and even completely illiminated in some of the worst examples, and I shall explain how in the following paragraphs.  Prevention has always been by far the best cure as with a lot of things so, every day I spend 20 minutes inspecting every container or fiberglass pond for any signs of duckweed, and  if I find just one speck, I remove it straight away.  Using this method has ensured that Lilies Water Gardens is always 100% duckweed free and carrying out the same measures on your own pond, will ensure that yours it too, as a 5 minute daily inspection is all it takes to keep your pond duckweed-free.

For badly contaminated ponds though, unfortunately, you will have to take the time consuming and unenviable task of thoroughly cleaning out the pond.  I recently carried out this task on my mother’s pond which had a bad infestation of duckweed.  Unfortunately, we had to discard all the plants and baskets, and give the pond several water changes before I was satisfied it was duckweed free.  It’s very important to jet wash  any stone ornaments to wash out any hidden duckweed that may have accumulated in any folds or crevices in the pond liner, especially where  the folds overlap onto land. You will also need to do a fine inspection of any soil areas outside the pond where the water may have overflowed or splashed over onto the soil.  It’s important to be very vigilant with inspections over the next few days.

However, if the task ahead it just too much to take on, our nursery now sells several eco and pond life friendly  products for controlling duckweed, and all can be used to kill off any new outbreaks  or on any badly contaminated ponds without the need for back breaking work.  These duckweed treatments work well but should really be used as a preventative measure rather than a cure as again, prevention is always by far the best remedy.

This is why here at Lilies Water Gardens we are proud to be owners of a duckweed free nursery.

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Justicea Americana

Justicia Americana

Also known as American Water Willow, this very attractive, rare and unusual plant grows wild on the edge of large-ponds, lakes, streams and rivers. Growing to a height of 45 cm, Justicia Americana will continue to flower throughout the summer for up to 10 weeks.

I first discovered this plant about 4 years ago.  It’s probably the most versatile plant I have ever come across, and it will thrive and look great growing in anything from a patio water feature, to the edge of large rivers, lakes and streams. Justicia can also grow in very shallow waters of only 2 cms down to a depth of 30 cm. Not only is this plant exceptionally attractive with its masses of stunning orchid like white, lavender and violet flowers, but is extremely useful as it will absorb nitrates, ammonia, and oxygenate your water.  Justicia is a perfect haven for wildlife too, as its compact growing habit will attract birds, and provide a suitable spawning ground for frogs, newts, greater crested newts, toads and fish. 100% frost hardy, Justicia Americana can survive weeks of being frozen solid in ice.

So, if you are looking for the perfect Marginal plant, look no further as Justicia Americana holds its head up high above all other marginal’s, and for this reason, I would give this plant a score of 100%.

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Floating Plant Islands

Floating Plant Islands

With all this hot weather, and your pond turning greener by the minute, it’s the ideal time to add some of our Floating Plant Islands. For those that have inherited a pond without marginal shelving or a surrounding bog-garden, these islands are ideal. The effect of our planting islands is not only visually enhancing, but, will also give safe and healthy cover for fish, amphibians and other wildlife.  For the best effect, we recommend you use trailing and creeping plants that will spread out over the islands and the water. The plants will also benefit your pond by taking nitrates out of the water, adding oxygen, cutting down on sunlight and so reducing algae and green water. Even better still, this can all be achieved in a matter of weeks. Our islands come in a square or round format and sit about 2 cm above the water when planted. They also come in two different sizes  of either 25cm or 35cm.  The larger islands will house two or three plants giving extra colour and variation.

For a visual effect and to take nitrates out of the water we recommend the following plants­ -

Mazus Reptans Blue

Mazus Reptans Alba

Potentilla Palustris

Anagalis Tenella

Lobelia Chinensis

Lysimachia Nummularia

Lysimachia Nummularia Aurea

Mimulus Orange Glow

Phyla Lanceolata

Trifolium Repens Purpurea

Trifolium Repens Dragons Blood

For a visual effect and to oxygenate the water we recommend the following plants -

Veronica Becabunga

Hydrocotyl Vulgaris

Hydrocotyl Vulgaris Chrytal Confetti

Ludwigia Palustris

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Planting

Once opened, simply place your island over a old flower pot, so the liner can unfold and hang down to its full capacity. Half fill with multi-purpose compost, add a couple of osmocote tablets, then take your chosen plants out of their pots and replant them into your islands. Finish by filling any gaps with more soil up to the level of the top of the island.

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Testing the Quality of Your Pond Water

Natural ponds, lakes, rivers and streams have adapted over millions of years and have established their own eco-balance of wildlife and plantlife. These include wildfowl, fish, amphibians and insects.  Creating a man-made eco-system for housing your own plants and fish in, is slightly more complex.  A basic rule to a healthy pond is to get the water quality correct.  This means, in essence, that you will need to introduce a healthy balance of plants, fish and insects.  A healthy pond should have a good and safe balance of nitrites and ammonia.  Ammonia produces nitrogen which is the waste product from fish and wildlife.  In a confined area of water when there is too much nitrogen build-up, it can prove to be toxic to the aquatic life living within.  Nitrites (not to be confused with nitrates), is also toxic to aquatic life.  A gasping fish is a definate sign that your once healthy pond, is immenently heading for a crash and needs urgent attention.

Sunlight falling on a unhealthy pond, causes too much photosynthesis and this results in too much absorbtion of CO2 in the water, thus resulting further, to a rise in PH levels.  PH means, too much acid or alkaline in the water and this can quickly develop , leaving your pond, in a very unhealthy state and ultimately lead to the death of the flora and forna living in and around it.  Aquatic plants especially require the correct levels of hydrogen in the water and so as a guide, you should be looking at a PH level of 7 which would be excellent.  However, a level of 0 or 14 for example, would definately prove to be catastrophic.

The correct way to establish a pond, is to introduce the plants before the fish.  Plants are more robust and will help maintain the right eco-balance and PH levels.  Healthy Water = Healthy Plants = Healthy and Happy Fish.

The biggest mistake some people make, is to introduce too many fish far too soon.  Over feeding is also another common problem and can again, lead to high nitrate levels in the water.  So, you may wonder how many fish to a pond?.  There are dozens of articles on how many fish to introduce depending on the amount of gallons per pond.  As a guide, it is best perhaps, just to bear in mind that there are dozens of species of cold water fish for you to choose from and, all come in a large variety of different shapes and sizes.  Some will grow fast and others, slowly, and they all have varied lifespans and breeding habits.  So, a few fish at a time and common sense is all really that is required.

To get you started, here at Lilies Water Gardens, we have a large range of five different Water Test Kits for you to test the water with before adding the fish to your pond.  We also have a range of very effective and safe Tetra Pond Treatments for you to choose from to help with the upkeep, and maintanence of your pond and, to help you to keep a well balanced, safe and healthy environment in which to keep your fish and other wildlife happy.

It’s very rewarding at the end of the day, to sit by your pond on a warm summers evening, listening to the trickle of the water and watching insects and fish play whilst the sun sets on a fiery red sky. It’s also far more satisfying, to enjoy the beauty of the plants and insects, with the knowledge that you have created not only a place of serenity, but a safe and happy environment for all that live in and for those that come visit your pond.

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Plants For Covering Exposed Pond Liner

A question I frequently get asked is ‘ What plants do I need to cover my exposed pond liner’ ?.  My advice and answer is, to dig your pond first and trim your exposed pond liner after you have filled it with water. Doing it this way, will ensure less of the liner will be exposed, & that you have adequate liner left over to cover the outside of your pond.  Which ever way your pond has been created, you will always be faced with the exposure of that unsightly liner, and knowing the right plants that will offer good coverage, can be daunting. 

Choosing the right plants is very important as we must consider the wildlife that will live in and around it. We should ultimately view this as a working partnership between you both.  If they are happy and contented, they in return, will help keep both your pond and the surrounding areas ecosystems running smoothly. So, taking this all into consideration, I have composed a list of plants below, that will satisfy both you and your wildlife. 

To help you further, I have placed the relevant plants into two catagories, the first being, plants that can be grown in the pond on a marginal shelf and will spread outwards quickly. These plants should be planted to a depth of 0-4 cm over their crowns or the planting container.  The second catagory are , plants that can be grown outside of the pond in the surrounding soil, in the same way as planting alpines or low growing, ground-covering perennials.  Some of the plants I have chosen are suitable for both in or around the pond and are listed under both catagories. I have done this as some of the marginals can adapt to rising water in the winter, and drought conditions in the summer months.  I have also added a couple of pictures to this blog to help you with your personal choice of plants. The pictures are of Mazus Retans and Mazus Retans Alba which are both perennials.

MARGINAL PLANTING 

Ranunculus Flammula

Potentilla Palustris

Veronica Becabunga

Myasotis Palustris Mermaid

Myasotis Palustris

Myasotis Palustris Alba

Myasotis Palustris Maytime

Myasotis Palustris Pinkie

Nasturtian Aquaticum

Oenanthes Fistulosa

Hydrocotyl Vulgaris

Hydrocotyl Vulgaris Chrystal Confetti

Justicea Americana

Lindernia Grandiflora

Lobelia Chinensis

Lysimachia Nummularia

Lysimachia Nummularia Aurea

Mentha Aquatica

Menyanthes Trifoliata

Oenanthes Japonica Flamingo

Phyla Lanceolata

Preslia Cervina

Preslia Cervina Alba

ALPINES AND PERENNIALS

Phyla Lanceolata

Physostegia Leptophylla

Pratia Angulata Treadwellii

Pratia Pendunculata

Pratia Pendunculata Country Park

Pratia Pendunculata White Stars

Ranunculus Repens Buttered Popcorn

Ranunculus Acris Multiplex

Gunnera Cordifolia

Gunnera Densiflora

Gunnera Flavida

Gunnera Hamitonii

Gunnera Magellanica

Gunnera Monoica

Gunnera Monoica Bronze

Hydrocotyl Vulgaris

Hydrocotyl Vulgaris Chrytal Confetii

Lindernia Grandiflora

Lobelia Chinensis

Lysimachia Nummularia

Lysimachia Nummularia Aurea

Mentha Piperta Chocolate Mint

Mentha Piperta Eau De Cologne

Mentha Piperta Black Peppermint

Cardamine Raphinifolia

Mazus Retans

Mazus Reptans Alba

Anagalis Tenella

Veronica Becabunga

Mimulus Moschatus

Mimulus Orange Glow

Oenanthes Fistulosa

Trifolium Repens Dragons Blood

Trifolium Repens Purpurea

Trifolium Repens Green Ice

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Plants to Encourage Dragonflies and Damselflies

Plants to Encourage Dragonflies and Damselflies

Insects have survived the test of time, and Dragonflies and Damselflies are no exception. Very little has changed in their evolution over the last 300 million years, and these prehistoric flying insects have certainly seen a few changes!.  In the British Isles, there are over 30 species and their breeding habitats range from ponds, lakes, canals, streams, ditches and wet marsh lands, in fact, almost any location that contains water. However robust they are, they tend to favour clean, clear shallow warmer waters as ideal breeding grounds.

As beautiful as Dragonflies and Damselflies are, it’s sad to think the adults only live as long as four weeks and spend 95% of their lives in the Nymph underwater stage, only emerging on hot sunny days when conditions are just right for the newly emerged adult’s wings to dry off in the warm sunshine. They may look beautiful and delicate, but the adults have adapted well over 300 million years to become ferocious predators, eating almost any flying insects that are smaller than themselves, Mosquitoes being one of their favourites. The underwater stage nymphs will also eat from small fish, to baby newts and tadpoles, in fact, almost anything that moves, even pond snails.

However, we must not take sides and choose between the Dragonflies and their prey, as Mother Nature has taken 300 million years in which to get her ecosystems just right! Pond plants play a vital role in encouraging these prehistoric creatures to your pond. As the nymphs favour certain plants on which to emerge onto to take their first breath of fresh air, as we watch them, we must surely find them one of nature’s most stunning flying insects.

Having grown water plants for the last 22 years, I have observed and noted certain shallow and deep water marginal plants that favour the emergent nymphs. For you too to enjoy this beautiful spectical, you will need to choose carefully from the plants listed below. As each require different depths in which to grow, I have therefore linked individual species or cultivars to relevant categories. When all is done and the conditions are just right for hatching and emerging, I hope you to will be able to transcend yourself back in time and appreciate these amazing flying creatures as much as I do.

Typha Cultivars

Alisma Cultivars

Pontaderia Cultivars

Acourus Cultivars

Butomus Cultivars

Sagittaria Cultivars

Ranunculus Lingua

Sparganium Erectum

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Planting Water Lilies

Planting Water Lilies

The first thing to consider before buying your water lilies, is the location in which they will be planted. All varieties will thrive in a sunny location and all will grow stronger, faster, and produce more flowers in warmer shallow waters. Hardy water lilies are extremely frost hardy and will survive long cold winters with temperatures down to as much as minus 20 degrees. Water lilies are easy to grow and need little maintenance. Their only requirements are a good feed of aquatic plant food once or twice a year and re-potting every few years, or as required, the later depending on the size of the planting container used and the speed of growth.

Hardy water lilies have 5 basic rhizome types, so different cultivars, depending on rhizome type, are suitable for different locations, ranging from small patio containers to natural clay bottomed lakes and ponds. It is therefore easier to deal with their planting requirements by the types of rhizome listed below.

Odorata

Tuberosa

Marliac

Pineapple

Pygmaea

Odorata and Tuberosa Type:

Water lilies of these types have a very different growing habit to the marliac, pineapple and pygmaea type rhizomes. Because of their growing habit, they are totally unsuitable for containers and should only be introduced to natural ponds where they can spread indefinitely. Odorata and Tuberosa water lilies grow from tuberous rhizomes that spread sideways 1 to 6 inches under the soil. Plants of this type, should always be supplied bare rooted. Odorata simply means fragrant, many of the upright type waterlilies are also fragrant.

Tuberous water lilies are easy to plant as you simply wade in and push the rhizomes into the soil. Position them on a very slight angle with the growing tip about 1 inch under the soil. If you are trying to colonise water lilies in deeper water, out of arms reach, there are one or two methods of planting that don’t require a full diving suit! Both these methods are a bit hit and miss. The first way is to wrap them up with clay or heavy top-soil in hessian or cloth that will eventually rot, and then tie the hessian secure with string to prevent any leaking soil. You now have a parcel of clay with a water lily tuber inside, and the next bit is easy. You simply drop them in from the surface of the water, or lob them in if the desired location is further out, The 2nd way is, to tie the rhizomes to bricks or large stones and use the same planting technique as above. Marliac and pineapple rhizomes can be planted exactly the same way. There is no rule as to how many tubers you can plant, as it ultimately depends on how much water surface area you have, and how quickly you want your lilies to become established. Unfortunately there are no guarantees when planting in this manner. I have planted water lilies this way on numerous occasions with a success rate of 30 to 90%

Marliac, Pineapple and Pygmaea Types

All the rhizomes of this type have a upright growing habit. Pineapple rhizomes are so-named because they look like a nobly pineapple. Pygmaea is the name referred to a small collection of miniature cultivars, all requiring the same planting technique.

The first thing is to choose a container. Large growing cultivars will require the stronger mesh plastic planting containers as they prefer more space to become established, small and miniature cultivars can be planted in containers or planting bags. Again there is no rule to how many rhizomes you can  plant at any one time, but you might want to consider planting just a single lily in a 4 litre container for a small pond, or 10 lilies in a large container to give a quicker established display of color. You will need hessian or cloth liners to prevent soil erosion and also aquatic soil and top gravel to protect your lily especially from foraging fish who may take a fancy to them. This will also add weight and stability to the basket. The top-gravel will keep the newly planted lily in place and creates a nice clean finished look.

Planting into baskets is easy. First, you line the basket with your hessian or cloth liner. The next step is, to plant your lily in an upright position into it. Water lilies of upright types, should be planted with the rhizomes below the soil level and the shoots above. Most rhizomes are supplied without roots. The roots should begin to sprout just below the shoots and stalks, but must be below the soil level. If you are unsure, push your lily down an inch or two to maybe 1 or 2 inches below the soil, as this will ensure they grow strong and secure.  Make sure you compact the soil in tight around them to prevent your lily from floating out. Trim off any excess hessian with scissors and finally, push some aquatic plant food (quantity depends on size of container) down 1 or 2 inches into the basket. Add about 1 inch of top gravel and this will finish the job. Lower your planted basket or baskets slowly into your pond allowing all the trapped air bubbles to escape.

Bare rooted water lilies can start to be planted out from the beginning of March to the end of July. Lilies planted in the spring, should produce same seasonal flowers by June or July if given the correct conditions.

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Pond Plants Need Feeding Too!

Pond Plants Need Feeding Too!

Nearly all plants require nutrients in the form of nitrate, phosphate and co2 in order to grow, flourish and produce flowers. The majority take what they need from the soil they grow in, and some plants have even adapted to being carnivorous in order to survive. Pond plants are no exception when it comes to feeding requirements. In their natural habitat, they get all they require from sediment sludge that has built up over a number of years, and this sludge is made up of rotting vegetation, dead fish, insects and other pond life, and also excrement from fish, ducks and other creatures. If you have ever cleaned out your pond after a number of years and scooped out that black foul smelling sludge, you will know what I mean !, but pond plants need it, thrive on it and love it.

It is not always possible to create this established nutrient rich environment as it takes time and patience, as it could take many years. Whether you have constructed a fiberglass or lined pond, or a natural clay bottomed lake, all the plants you introduce, will require nutrients and minerals to feed them in order to grow successfully. Please see our small range of aquatic plant foods.

NEW for 2011, we are introducing Ferro Plus, especially designed for water lilies, an iron supplement that stimulates strong plant growth and brings out the colour in flowers. We also have a new product called Super Growth Balls suitable for feeding all types of water plants.

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Frog Spawning Season

Frog Spawning Season

After all the heavy snow and feezing conditions we usually experience in December, spring is always a welcome sight & thankfully just around the corner. January and February so far, have been reasonably mild, & if you know what to look for, there are signs of spring arriving as soon as the last of the snow has melted & the day light hours lengthen.  As someone that suffers from mild Seasonal Adjustment Disorder, this is great news. Every time I survive another winter, I always embrace that seasonal change into spring. 

In the last few weeks, i have noticed the countryside starting to turn into that lush, fresh, healthy green colours of spring & my old & welcome friend the snowdrops, are popping up everywhere. Depending on what part of the country you live in & the diversity of the weather, the frogs seem to know something about this change that we obviously don’t, as frog spawn has been sighted around the country as early as mid-January. Therefore, it would be very interesting to hear from anyone that already has frog spawn  in their pond. 

Spring is certainly official for me when I see a busy pond filled with a frenzy of frogs and frogspawn & anybody can invite frogs & other amphibians into their back gardens as all you really need is something that holds water.  Remembering back to my own childhood, i once made a pond out of an old rubber dingy. I spent many happy hours collecting & hatching frog-spawn & raising tadpoles to froglets so i could release them back into the wild.  If you are lucky enough to have a garden with a pond & u have frogs already happily thriving in it, it is worth taking time to study these new little leases of life as they are always an interesting sight, & in my opinion, should not be missed.

Albino Frog Spawn

I would be very much interested to hear from anyone that happens to spot Albino frog spawn. It seems from my studies, that it might only occur in areas where the frogs carry the albino gene. Albino frog spawn is rare, & frogs have so many predators that its quite probable that any albino frog spawn & tadpoles would very rarely make it to adulthood.

New for 2011

We are now selling eco-pond early stage tadpole food and late-stage tadpole food;

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